My New Local …. Fabric Discovering the Vibrant World of Ikat
Last month, while strolling past the Andrew Martin store on Walton Street in London, I was captivated by a window display that burst with color. An array of oversized cushions, masterfully designed by the American textile artist Madeline Weinrib, showcased a playful palette of clashing pinks, lime greens, and bold yellows. It was a visual feast that immediately drew me in.
The colors danced together, embodying the essence of Ikat fabric—a technique where the dyeing of yarn is meticulously controlled to create intricate patterns. This is no simple task; it involves taping off sections of yarn in a painstaking process where precision is paramount. Even a slight deviation of a millimeter can dramatically alter the final result, underscoring the artistry and skill that go into crafting these vibrant textiles.
Inspired by this delightful display, I embarked on a quest to explore the world of Ikat further in search of fun summer fabrics. My journey led me to a small family mill in the charming medieval port town of Pollanca, Mallorca. Here, at Teixits Vicens, they have been producing the enchanting ‘cloth of tongues’ since 1854.
Upon arrival, I was warmly welcomed by Bartomeu, the mill’s proprietor, and his brother, who were eager to share their craft with me. Tucked away in a nondescript building off a roundabout, this mill is truly a hidden treasure. The walls were lined with rolls of cheerful fabric, showcasing a spectrum of Mediterranean blues and purples amidst a vibrant array of sunny, fruit bowl colors.
In a sunlit room adorned with terracotta tiles, I marveled at a weaving machine from the 1860s, a testament to the mill’s rich history. Further inside, I discovered the expansive yarn room, where cotton yarn is meticulously unraveled, dyed in large baths, rewoven, and finally dried in the building’s roof void. On the day of my visit, the hue of the yarn being dyed was a deep, rich blue that filled the space with its serene energy.
Bartomeu explained that little has changed in their methods since the late 1890s. The intricate patterns are carefully set into a spooling machine, with the only modern piece of equipment facilitating the process, reducing the time required from several days to just 48 hours. At this stage, the yarn is woven with linen, resulting in a delightful blend of 70% cotton and 30% linen.
In the midst of this treasure trove, we fell in love with a stunning green and cream fabric that spoke of elegance and charm. I could already envision it paired with a bright red or fuchsia lining, accentuated by bound buttonholes—an exquisite combination perfect for the summer season.
This gem of a mill, run with an old-fashioned Mallorcan positivity and passion, is crafting truly wonderful fabrics. I eagerly look forward to the possibilities of creating beautiful tailoring together, celebrating the rich heritage and vibrant creativity that Ikat embodies.
