Exmoor with Rose Cameron
In early September, I had the pleasure of joining Rose Cameron, a team of riders, and friends for an unforgettable exploration of Exmoor. For those unacquainted with this part of England, Exmoor is a national park that feels almost timeless, spanning both Somerset and Devon. Its dramatic moorlands, deep wooded valleys, and rolling hills are interspersed with picturesque villages that seem unchanged by the centuries.
The wildlife here is abundant. Famous Exmoor ponies roam freely, and it isn’t unusual to catch a glimpse of red deer or stags standing proudly against the horizon. The area is steeped in history—prehistoric standing stones, medieval bridges, and ancient farming communities remind you that people have been part of this landscape for millennia. There’s an almost magical quality to Exmoor, and you sense that it remains beautifully unspoiled.
We were staying at the fabulous Emmett’s Farm, overseen by the ever-hospitable Victoria Ervine. Set against the sweeping Exmoor hills (when visible through the rolling fog), the farmhouse felt like an escape into a world of comfort and warmth. Roaring fires, cozy interiors, and a farmhouse kitchen welcomed us for our three-night stay, offering the perfect refuge after a day on horseback.
Our evenings were as delightful as our days. We gathered around an expansive table, filled with laughter, stories, and glasses of chilled Chablis—courtesy of Rose’s ever-charming husband, Ewen. After a satisfying supper, we retreated to our rooms, ready for an early start the next morning.
After a hearty English breakfast, we set off on what would be a day filled with adventure. Our first ride took us through the wide-open moorlands. The views were breathtaking—rugged hills blanketed in heather, wild ponies grazing peacefully in the distance, and the occasional glimpse of the Bristol Channel shimmering far off on the horizon. Stags moved quietly along the ridgelines, adding to the sense of wildness and freedom that defines Exmoor.
Naturally, we were dressed for all weathers—a fortuitous decision, as we encountered some of the most relentless rain I’ve ever known. Yet, even in this, the landscape revealed another side of its beauty. Sheets of rain swept across the hills, making everything seem even more dramatic and elemental.
A welcome lunch was hosted at a friend of Victoria’s farmhouse, complete with an inglenook fireplace so large it felt as though it could swallow us whole—ideal for drying off and restoring warmth. But the weather had more in store for us. As we set out for the final couple of hours riding over the moor, the heavens opened, and we were, quite literally, drenched.
Thankfully, my Margot trench coat proved its worth, performing admirably through the downpour—though how the inside of my hat managed to get wet remains a mystery! Upon returning to Emmett’s, we tended to the horses, dried off, and most of us opted for a much-needed warm bath and a change into dry clothes.
Dinner that evening was, once again, elegant and accompanied by yet more fine wine. We gathered around the fire, sharing reflections on the day’s ride and, naturally, on the mysterious and rather handsome farmer who had hosted us for lunch.
The following day, we set out to explore the wooded valleys of Exmoor, where ancient oaks and towering beeches create a canopy that feels almost enchanted. Rose, with her expert knowledge of the land, led us along a route that took us through quaint villages and across hidden gems—medieval stone bridges, their stones worn smooth by centuries of passage, and tiny, charming farmhouses tucked into the folds of the landscape. There was even a whispered rumor that one of these cottages might be home to none other than the Johnson clan—the Boris variety, of course.
Riding with Rose through Exmoor is one of the most immersive ways to truly appreciate the wild beauty and rich history of these moorlands. The vastness of the landscape, with its open spaces, winding trails, and varied terrain, allows for an extraordinary connection to nature. The untamed beauty of Exmoor surrounds you as you ride, its timelessness both humbling and invigorating.
As we gained height, the wild heather and golden gorse stretched out before us in a vivid patchwork. The landscape opened up to reveal distant valleys, the kind that feel like they belong in an old English painting. And just beyond, the glint of the sea shimmered on the horizon, a reminder of how this ancient land meets the ever-changing coastline.
Rose and Victoria, with their tireless verve for entertaining, ensured that even in the midst of this wild landscape, we wanted for nothing. Gin and tonics seemed to materialize from nowhere, and the incredible food and flawless organization meant that what could have been a grueling few days became instead an utterly cathartic and inspiring experience.
On our last evening, we visited a true Exmoor institution—the Poltimore Arms. As luck would have it, the pub was hosting a druid’s wedding, which lent a wonderfully eccentric atmosphere to the evening. Conversations flowed as freely as the drinks, and there was even talk of the Poltimore Polo team paying a visit to Mallorca. Who knows? We shall see.
The Better Pictures were taken by Georgina Preston
The Styling by Sarah Kate Byrne
